I first dined at Empress by Boon upon its opening three years ago, and was enchanted by both the beauty of the restaurant’s interior, and by the presentation of the multi-course Cantonese-centric, prix-fixe menu. Now, a few years later, that sense of enchantment was reignited upon the opening of the elevator door to the restaurant’s sixth floor dining room. It’s just as lovely as I recall; the view is still breathtaking; the peacock hued booths are just as blue, and the culinary presentation is just as dramatic.
Perched atop San Francisco’s historic Grant Building, within what was once the legendary Empress of China restaurant, Empress by Boon continues to reign as an under-the-radar Chinatown gem. The restaurant’s discreet Grant Ave. signage provides no hint to the wonders found six floors above, to which guests are guided by a street level host. The bar, tea lounge, and dining room evoke a private, supper club ambiance, and the center stage, stunning, antique, wooden pergola hints at what is to be an unforgettable dining experience.
The restaurant features two distinct dining areas, each offering unique vistas. From the north-facing tables and booths, diners can admire moody, fog-laden views of Coit Tower and Telegraph Hill, while the eastern dining room, adorned with carved wooden screens, showcases the striking Salesforce Tower and its top floor light show. (The only difference discerned from my initial and current visit is that this second dining room now opens only later in the week to accommodate weekend crowds.) Regardless of where you sit, the restaurant’s interior, designed by Atelier LLYS, is lovely.
As striking as is the interior, it’s Chef Ho Chee Boon’s exquisitely creative cuisine that continues to captivate. The Michelin awarded Chef Boon is renowned for his role as the executive chef at the esteemed Hakkasan chain and its popular locations around the world. With three decades of culinary expertise, he continues to consider Empress by Boon the realization of a lifelong dream. Employing traditional techniques and sourcing fresh ingredients from local purveyors—including an organic farm in Gilroy—Boon crafts seasonally changing menus that blend contemporary flair with the essence of traditional Cantonese cuisine.
On this visit, the ever-changing menu consisted of:
- Duck Soup with ginkgo seed, mountain yam, and fish maw
- California Prawn with seaweed and green wasabi mustard
- Scallop and Kaluga Caviar Roll
- Prawn and Pak Choi Dumplings with crab roe
- Wok Tossed Lobster (in an Instagram-worthy presentation)
- Mendocino Uni and Steamed Housemade Tofu
- And served family style: Baked Alaskan Cod, Stir Fried Matsutake Mushrooms with asparagus and chicken breast, and Scallion Noodles with Shiitake mushrooms and cauliflower.
Signature dishes like the Peking Duck, sourced from Joe Jurgielewicz & Son, a renowned fourth-generation farm in Pennsylvania, are available a la carte. Each delicious course is greatly enhanced by the thoughtful wine pairings, though the unique, crafted cocktails should also not be missed. The Nanjing—a luxurious twist on the Old-Fashioned featuring duck fat-rinsed Knob Creek Rye—is my particular favorite, and my dinner companion greatly enjoyed her non-alcoholic “#1 Crush” of orange juice, Annatto, lemon and ginger beer.
At $118/pp, I believe Boon’s prix fixe, nine course menu is one of the best dining deals in the Bay Area. Empress by Boon is not just a restaurant; it’s a celebration of culinary artistry within a sumptuous atmosphere that invites discerning diners to experience its magic.
Photos by Jean Bai, unless otherwise noted
Empress by Boon: 838 Grant Avenue, San Francisco