On a recent Sunday night, La Mar was alive with energy. The sprawling Embarcadero restaurant (always a magnet for both locals and visitors) buzzed with conversation, laughter, and the clink of Pisco Sours. Even after several visits here, I’m struck by just how expansive the space is: a warren of alcoves and dining areas, each with its own personality. This time, I found myself on the back terrace, overlooking the Bay, with ships slipping by in the distance and colorful flower baskets hanging overhead.
A Reinvented Classic
After 17 years on the waterfront, La Mar has debuted a major renovation that signals a bold new era. The refresh, designed by San Francisco–based firm Eight Inc., ties together the restaurant’s five key spaces—the bar (remodeled in 2023), lobby, Chef’s Table, main dining room, and outdoor patio—into a unified, flowing experience.
Inside, the details are as carefully considered as the food. Deep cyan ceramic tiles and indigo banquettes give the space a maritime vibe, while hand-shaped acrylic fixtures hover above select tables like glowing jellyfish. Enhanced lighting allows the atmosphere to shift seamlessly from day to night. A new overhang partially encloses the kitchen, concentrating the energy in the dining room, while fluted glass panels add privacy to the Chef’s Table—ideal for an executive dinner or an intimate gathering.
Outdoors, where I spent the evening, the patio now feels like an extension of the interior rather than an afterthought. Refurbished wood floors, lush planters, and new furnishings make it feel fresh and timeless, while soft ambient lighting creates an intimate glow, setting a warm and inviting tone.
A Menu with New Energy
The physical transformation is matched by an ambitious reworking of the menu under Executive Chef Victoriano Lopez. Earlier this year, Lopez traveled to Lima to reconnect with La Mar’s founder, Gastón Acurio, and immerse himself in that city’s vibrant culinary scene. (Acurio oversees brand concept, design, and culinary philosophy for all ten La Mar locations worldwide.) Lopez’s journey informed the new San Francisco menu, which honors Peruvian traditions while embracing California’s seasonal bounty.
Among the highlights: the Cebiche Victoriano, built on pristine local halibut and sunchoke leche de tigre; and the La Grand Bandeja Cebichera, a dramatic platter featuring everything from classic cebiche to jumbo prawns and hamachi sashimi. Tiradito al Olivo showcases Spanish octopus with purple potato sauce and crispy chicharron, while the large-format Arroz Con Cangrejo—a rich crab rice designed for two to four—channels the convivial spirit of Peruvian dining. For those wanting a more curated approach, a $109 tasting menu offers a sweeping tour of the kitchen’s updated repertoire.
What hasn’t changed is La Mar’s commitment to artistry. Each dish is visually stunning, layered with bold color and texture, the kind of plating that draws the eye before the first bite. That attention to detail carries through to the drinks, where the bar continues to spotlight Peru’s signature spirit. The classic Pisco Sour remains essential, its frothy top and citrusy punch an ideal prelude to the seafood-driven feast, while the wine list offers a thoughtful selection from around the world.
More Than a Meal
La Mar has always been more than a restaurant; it’s a gathering place. That ethos is tangible in the way the space flows, inviting guests to savor the moment. On the buzzy Sunday evening, couples leaned in close over ceviche, families shared platters, and groups of friends toasted beneath the glowing fixtures.
The restaurant’s redesign also places La Mar in dialogue with its global siblings. With locations from Lima to Dubai to Madrid, the brand has become one of Peru’s most successful culinary ambassadors. The San Francisco restaurant, which marked Gastón Acurio’s U.S. debut back in 2008, has long been a touchstone for Peruvian cuisine in the Bay Area.
A Rediscovery
For me, La Mar’s renovation feels less like a facelift than a rediscovery. The familiar energy is still there: the hum of a packed dining room, the celebratory mood that seems to infuse every table, but now it’s set against a backdrop that feels more cohesive and more reflective of Peru’s exuberant culture. Pair that with a refreshed menu that celebrates both heritage and innovation, and you have a restaurant that feels newly vital.
As the night deepened, I lingered on the terrace with an exceptional espresso martini, watching the world glide by. After three visits, I thought I knew La Mar well. But like any great city institution, it has a way of surprising you. This latest chapter proves that even after nearly two decades, La Mar remains one of San Francisco’s most dynamic dining experiences, a place where you can taste the flavors of Peru while soaking in the very best of the Bay.
“Around the World” Global Menu
La Mar celebrates 20 Years of Peruvian Culinary Excellence with its “Around the World” Global Menu, launching October 1. The coordinated menu, in celebration of La Mar Lima’s 20th anniversary, features 10 signature dishes from 10 cities worldwide, each reflecting the creativity, diversity, and spirit of Peruvian cuisine interpreted by La Mar’s executive chefs. From Lima’s iconic Pesca Nikkei to Dubai’s Conchita Poderosa and Madrid’s Hamachi Nigiri with crispy calamari, the menu is a heartfelt tribute to the people, places, and stories that have defined the brand’s 20-year journey. The dishes are more than a tasting menu, they are a passport through La Mar’s global evolution, highlighting how Peruvian cuisine has not only traveled the world, but taken root and flourished in every city it’s touched. Guests who order the La Mar Around the World menu will receive a custom envelope containing the printed menu and an illustrated map that traces the story behind each dish, transforming dinner into a guided culinary journey rich with personal and cultural narrative.
Photos courtesy of La Mar Cocina Peruana