On a return trip to Versailles (it’s been years since the last one), I notice a multitude of little girls dressed as Disney princesses in the throngs that stumble and push through the vast hallways of Louis XIV’s (the Sun King’s) grandiose palace. I also see fancy-dressed influencers, usually with a photo hubby in tow, jockeying for a picture opportunity, deftly trying to find a spot that makes
it look like they’ve managed to be the only tourist at the storied monument. We wend around them, aware that they’re not actually looking at the gild and glam, except perhaps in the Hall of Mirrors where they stop to note their own reflections. I’m with my daughter and her daughter, and we stop to buy macarons—specifically Ladurée, who helm their own booth within the palace. In the past, we would have finished our tour of the gardens, grounds and multiplicity of palace rooms, then exhausted, hobbled to the station to catch the train back to Paris. I know—because that’s what we’ve done before.
Why, after all, should we go back to Paris after a day at Versailles? Why not stay in Versailles to sleep like princesses at Hôtel Les Lumières ?
But with the opening of Hôtel Les Lumières , a new five star outpost across the street from Versailles’ golden gates, it takes just five minutes for us to walk back to relax in our suite,nibbling our macarons along the way. If luxury means quality and ease (and it does), then HôtelLes Lumières ‘ very existence, not to mention its sublime embodiment of sumptuousness and its brilliant execution of pampering, reminds us to do things differently—to travel more mindfully, in fact. Why, after all, should we go back to Paris after a day at Versailles? Why not stay in Versailles to sleep like princesses at Hôtel Les Lumières ? What we discover when the crowds leave and Versailles, the palace, closes at night is that Versailles, the town, deliciously characteristic and utterly French, gets sleepy, even ordinary in a marvelous unexpected way. The stylish hotel, creatively sculpted by architects from two side-by-side historic villas, has regal overtones. It feels a bit like an extension of the Sun King’s palace across the street.
Boutique and clever, Hôtel Les Lumières , a Relais & Chateaux property, features contemporary accoutrements in 31 sleek rooms and suites, all with dazzling views. In this fusion of centuries- old architectural bones, plush fabrics and shiny new reimaginations, the hotel satisfies both history buffs (with its extant elements) and guests who seek modernity. Every detail captivates: Staff wear brooches shaped like a gleaming sun, pink velvet chair feel like thrones and every guest room or suite has been named for renowned players from the Age of Enlightenment—think Voltaire—, which adds atmospheric flair. An inviting library downstairs is
packed with books in various languages with a whole section for children. We spend hours flipping through Marie Antoinette storybook, discovering Versailles fun facts we’ve never heard while touring the palace with a guide. Hôtel Les Lumières ‘ La Galerie Lumières,’ outdoes itselfat breakfast, lunch and during afternoon tea room with elegant comestibles. The room, a vision of glittery chandeliers, ornate mouldings and gild aplenty was designed to mimc Versailles’ famous Hall of Mirrors. Light streams in from huge windows, positioned like frame the palace
itself. All who enter swoon.
The beauty of staying at Hôtel Les Lumières is that it becomes a our own palace—albeit a diminutive. Staying the night (or longer) also introduces an alternative version of a town in which most people don’t take the time to linger and explore. We eat at local bistros, stroll the “free” park that edges the palace grounds and visit baroque Versaille Cathedral—among other
things. There’s time, also, to return to Versailles without the frenzied feeling of having to beat the crowds. We can experience the palace in tiny bites, as if lingering over a macaron.
I think Queen Marie Antoinette would approve.
Hôtel Les Lumières Fun Facts
Dining
Besides La Galerie Lumières (which, by the way serves macarons by Pierre Hermes- even at. breakfast), book a table at the hotel’s signature, gastronomic restaurant: La Table des Lumieres, Here, Chef Erwan Le Thomas nobly elevates vegetables to regal standards with his plant-based,
gourmet cookery.
Spa
Elegant, subterranean and tranquil, this sanctum offers treatments fueled with Brad Pitt’s beauty line. Called Beau Domaine, it contains pure, healing ingredients from his vineyards and olive groves.
Experiences
Well-equipped rooms and suites have yoga mats, journals to record your ingenious thoughts,weighted blankets to coddle you, a dream machine and meditation books. Via the concierge, book any number of appealing activities, such as horseback riding in the park, private tours ofVersailles, art lessons with local craftspeople and journeys in vintage cars.